As the global style bandwagon now flits to Europe, with London Fashion Week kicking off on Friday before moving onto Milan and Paris, here are the 10 top trends that New York Fashion Week offered this season:
* Under boob
New York may be primarily a commercial market that luxuriates in wearable fashion, and above all, sales — but side boob has been tabloid fodder for years and designers were not afraid to be daring. Spring/summer is the season for under boob — tops so short they just graze the nipple, revealing plenty of flesh underneath. See Chromat and Victor Barragan. GCDS took it a step further by even showing nipple. Jackets were opened to reveal side boob at Vicky Zhang.
* Rainbow colours
Collections were a riot of colours — hot pink paired with red: the colour combo of the season for the brave Tom Ford shopper. Marc Jacobs went orange, green and psychedelic. Spain’s luxury pret-a-couture label Depolzo luxuriated in green, pale pink and bright yellow. Yellow was a statement colour at Carolina Herrera and also Ralph Lauren, in tulle with a black biker jacket.
* 1990s throwback
Tom Ford kicked off the week by going back to his Gucci heyday, mining for inspiration in the decade that made him famous. There were plenty of low-slung pants, hip-grazing cut-out bodysuits and boxy jackets. Italian label GCDS also went for low-slung and bodysuits, while Oscar de la Renta and Victoria Beckham showed oversized jackets. The 1990s supermodel Cindy Crawford officially passed the baton to the next generation — her 16-year-old daughter Kaia Gerber made her runway debut for the Calvin Klein, Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs.
* Check mate
Fine check or the graph-paper look as Victoria Beckham told us is having a moment. See Rosie Assoulin, Public School, Christian Siriano, Monse, Calvin Klein and rag & bone, among others.
* Stripe right
Traditionally, the preserve of old-fashioned pajamas, blue was the colour of choice for vertical stripes. Seen at Rosie Assoulin, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Phillip Lim, Sies Marjan, Monse and Jason Wu.
* Flamenco
With flamenco an ultimate and timeless summer fantasy, there were flounces and ruffles galore for a flirty, sensuous look. See Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Phillip Lim and Jeremy Scott.
* Diversity
Continuing a theme, perhaps snubbing their nose at Trump’s assault on minorities, the notoriously snooty world of fashion is starting to relax is rules of membership. Plus-size models are having a moment in the sun, see Ashley Graham walking for Prabal Gurung and Michael Kors, not to mention plus-size only collections from Addition Elle and Chromat.
* Giving others a chance
With Raf Simons the lone standout and the departure of established trend setters Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Thom Browne and Altuzarra to Paris, it gave editors, bloggers and buyers time to check out shows several confessed they would never have bothered to see otherwise. One was Mexican-born Victor Barragan, 25, who got a packed house for his third New York show, offering an original take on what it means to be masculine/feminine, the female body and defying conventions.
* Politics
Disgust with Donald Trump continues to bubble over in New York and resonates well with the largely female clientele of luxury fashion labels — not to mention a Democrat-voting, diverse group of designers. Tory Burch offered an ode to happiness to escape troubled times. Retailer alice + olivia had a model pose in front of a feminist wall and offered a Super Woman clutch. Raf Simons, whose show for Calvin Klein was the week’s stand out, meditated on the American dream meets American horror. Rihanna-favourite Matthew Adams Dolan said that in times of “relentless civil unrest and widening political divides,” he reimagined a “working wardrobe for an inclusive and celebratory generation.”
* End of the runway
A hot topic of conversation for some time, an increasing number of designers are searching for something different. Ralph Lauren unveiled his collection out of town alongside his collection of racing cars. Duchess of Cambridge favourite Jenny Packham, who next year celebrates her eponymous evening label’s 30th anniversary, ditched the runway in favour of a photographic and video campaign to be released on Thursday. “I got what I wanted really and I just felt it needed a bit more integrity really,” she said.
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